Udaipur is often called the ‘City of Lakes’ due to its stunning bodies of water, and it has also earned the nickname ‘Venice of the East’ because of its European ambience. Located in Rajasthan, Udaipur is a popular destination known for its charming surroundings, beautiful palaces and monuments, striking lakes, royal history, and breathtaking landscapes. It was likely our favourite city in India, where we spent four days enjoying a much needed respite from the hectic experiences we had encountered in other cities like Delhi, Amritsar and Jaipur.
The royal city of Udaipur has been the capital of Mewar – an independent Hindu Kingdom since the 1550s AD, after the Kingdom moved its base from Chittorgarh due to constant Mughal attacks. Building the city within the Aravalli mountain range was a brilliant strategic move, as the landscape provided a safer place to defend and make long-term alliances. After India gained independence in 1947, the Maharaja of Udaipur ceded the city to the Indian government, and Mewar was merged into the state of Rajasthan.
Our Udaipur Highlights
Udaipur offered us a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere with very friendly and hospitable people who exchanged pleasantries whether we were exploring royal palaces, seeing afar from incredible viewpoints, or chilling out in one of the many chai cafes. The city has a romantic ambience, especially in the evenings, when we watched the sunset over Lake Pichola from various rooftop restaurants or mingled with locals and tourists at the majestic ghats.
The Ghats of Udaipur
Ghats play an important role in towns and cities throughout India. They are steps leading down to rivers or lakes, where people come to perform rituals. The most famous ghats in India are found in Varanasi, but Udaipur also boasts beautiful ghats, especially around Lake Pichola, such as Ambrai Ghat, Lal Ghat, and, on the opposite side of the lake, with stunning views of the palace, Hanuman Ghat. However, we found Gangaur Ghat to be the most scenic and interesting. It was always bustling with people bathing, swimming, and praying, and it was a good place to soak our aching feet from the day’s exertions while watching buildings change to different shades of orange and red as nighttime approached. It also seemed to be a popular spot for pre-marital photo shoots!
Visited the City Palace
One of the highlights of our visit to Udaipur was exploring one of the largest palaces in Rajasthan. The City Palace, built by Maharana Udai Singh II in 1559, sits right on the edge of Pichola Lake and thrived during Udaipur’s time as the capital of the Mewar Kingdom. After India gained independence in 1947, the Mewar kings lost all their privileges, but the remaining family members continue to own the palace. They see it as their duty to promote the development of Udaipur and oversee charitable trusts. Nowadays, the palace serves as a museum with several buildings connected by gateways, gardens, courtyards, and narrow corridors. One unforgettable memory we have of the City Palace are the rooms adorned with colourful decorations and mirrors, artfully arranged to create the illusion of a much larger space.
We came across a few informative narrations on the walls, but ultimately decided to purchase an audio guide. It offered brief commentaries that kept us engaged, especially in explaining the architectural differences of each room based on the era in which the Maharaja was born. Additionally, the audio guide included an insightful section about the lives of the women who lived and worked in the palace, highlighting their significant impact on the local community. Another advantage of using the audio guide was that it helped drown out the noise from what felt like hundreds of multilingual tour guides in the echoing, narrow corridors.
Hindsight is great, and if we ever visited the City Palace again, we would arrive just after opening time or a couple of hours before closing: in between, it’s just countless tour parties. Also, rather than paying at one place for a combined ticket, we were somewhat frustrated in forever paying out at different points around the complex, including queuing for a 50 INR ($0.50) ticket, just to walk through a metal gate towards the docks!
Discovered Jagmandir Island Palace
Pichola Lake, a man-made body of water, is the heart of Udaipur and features two islands: Jagmandir Island, which hosts the Garden Lake Palace – a former Mewar palace adorned with elephant statues and beautifully manicured gardens – and Jag Niwas Island, home to the luxurious 5-star Taj Lake Palace hotel. Jagmandir Island Palace is a stunning marble structure located on a small island, accessible only by boat. Interestingly, this palace also served as a filming location for the 1983 James Bond movie, ‘Octopussy’. We enjoyed a 30-minute boat trip around both islands and the lake, which offered us a perfect vantage point to admire the scenery. We could only imagine how beautiful the journey would have been at sunset.
We collected our boat tickets from one of the payment booths inside the palace. The tickets provided us with a round-trip ride on the lake, including a stop at Jagmandir Island Palace for as long as we wanted. There wasn’t much to see on the island, so we spent about 25 minutes exploring the small but beautiful gardens, a quaint temple, and taking in the views of the lake. Afterwards, we hopped back on another boat to return to the palace docks. However, if we wanted a boat tour around the lake at sunset, the price increased after 2:00 pm from 600 INR to 800 INR. This seemed odd, since sunset is typically nowhere near that time of day!
Admired Jagdish Temple
Jagdish Temple is one of the largest and oldest Hindu places of worship in Udaipur, and probably the most popular. Completed in 1651, it is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Built in the Indo-Aryan style, the temple is a three-story structure adorned with intricately carved pillars, beautifully decorated ceilings, and a spectacular entrance of 32 sculptured marble steps – breathtaking. During our visit, a ceremony was taking place, and we were encouraged to observe the proceedings. Devotees were chanting, praying, and receiving blessings, all while immersed in the captivating atmosphere created by the incense and chimes.
Browsed the Markets
After a full day of sightseeing, dining, and resting for a couple of hours, we thoroughly enjoyed wandering through the beautiful alleyways, exploring shops and markets in the evenings. Unlike many other cities in India, Udaipur is less chaotic. While it still has its share of scooters and tuk-tuks, the overall vibe is more relaxed, with shop owners being less persistent and pushy. We had the most fun browsing for souvenirs around the areas of the Clock Tower, Jagdish Temple, and Gangaur Ghat, where we found handicrafts, leather products, postcards, paintings, and a wide variety of clothing items.
Climbed to Karni Mata Temple
One of the most exciting activities we did in Udaipur was hiking the trail leading to Karni Mata Temple. We initially planned to climb it for sunrise, but neither of us was eager to get out of bed that early! So, after having a rather late breakfast, we walked a couple of kilometres across town to Lake Dadh Talai, where the hike began.
The actual hike took about 25 minutes along a well-paved but steep path. Along the way, we passed a couple of watchtowers, saw monkeys, and encountered many chipmunk squirrels. At the top, we enjoyed unbelievable panoramic views over Udaipur, which is dotted with numerous lakes and neighbouring towns. The landscape was surprisingly hilly and very green. In addition to Karni Mata Temple, which is believed to be the city’s protector, there were several other interesting temples along the top as well as a cable car station for a more tranquil and a lot less sweaty descent.
Bagore Ki Haveli and the Rajasthani Traditional Dance
The Bagore Ki Haveli, located near Gangaur Gate, was a delightful surprise for us. After spending the day exploring Udaipur’s main attractions, we stumbled upon this Mewar mansion, built in the 18th century, which has now been transformed into a charming folk museum. It features a variety of displays showcasing traditional dress and customs from the past. There were no lengthy narratives, just simple captions that explained the rooms within the home and the tools used for cleaning, repairs, and cooling down during the long, hot summers.
Despite some recent renovations, there were many original features that remained, including the smooth stone staircase, household furniture, rickety old wooden entrance doors, and some well-preserved kitchenware utensils. The haveli also offered stunning views of the ghats and the city.
In the evening, the courtyard hosted a Rajasthani cultural show that lasted nearly an hour and turned out to be one of the highlights of our Udaipur visit. Through a combination of dance, song, puppetry, and atmospheric lighting, along with a live band playing traditional music, the performers showcased their culture and customs with incredible precision and skill. It was both entertaining and enjoyable, especially watching a dancer balance ten pots on her head and another who twirled vigorously on one foot at least fifty times!
Other Attractions we Experienced in Udaipur
Udaipur is surrounded by several well-known lakes, including Badi Lake and Udai Sagar Lake. During our visit, we took the time to explore the stunning Fateh Sagar Lake, which features a couple of islands hosting an observatory and a nature park. Instead of spending time on the lake, we chose to take a long hike around part of Fateh Sagar Lake. This hike offered us beautiful landscapes, fresh air, and a peaceful atmosphere far from the crowds in Udaipur.
While near Fateh Sagar Lake, we also visited two interesting Jain temples: the colourful and aromatic Shree Keshriya Temple, located 300 metres east of the Jagdish Temple, and the Shri Padmanabha Swami Jain Teerth Temple, situated close to the lake, which boasts an extraordinary array of mirror and glass decorations inside.
If we had more time, we would have explored the following places and activities;
- Delwara Village (40 minutes from Udaipur. Take part in the Seva Mandir’s Heritage Walk, organised by a community-based NGO, for a tour of the town with scenic and photogenic scenes of village life and Jain Temples).
- Eklingji Temple and Ahar Cenotaphs (22 km north of Udaipur, the Eklingji Temple features a 50-foot-high black marble statue of Shiva, and the Ahar Cenotaphs consist of 250 memorials built over 350 years for the Mewar maharajas. Both these attractions are slightly off the main path to Dewara).
- Animal Aid Unlimited (in Badi village, it’s possible to volunteer for a couple of hours or days for the injured, sick or homeless animals, with the centre’s aim to release them back to where they came or to find them new homes)
- Monsoon Palace (although pricey, it is considered one of the best spots for a sunset view, at 900+ metres above Pichola Lake in the Aravalli Hills).
- Art Class (very popular with tourists visiting Udiapur who have an interest in traditional Indian art styles, such as drawing miniature art, postcard painting and pottery).
Eating in Udaipur
Udaipur offers countless dining options, and the rooftops of the restaurants overlooking Lake Pichola provided breathtaking views each night we were there. The city boasts an impressive selection of organic restaurants that serve more inventive dishes beyond the standard Indian fare.
During our visit, we also enjoyed meals at a few other cafes. Mavi Café specialised in pancakes, avocados, and vegan dishes, while Smokey Jo’s café served up delicious mushroom toasties on sourdough bread. Our hotel, Udaigarth-Udaipur, cooked some of the tastiest Aloo Matar Masala, Aloo Paratha, and Pakoras we have ever had, and our regular visits to Café Edelweiss, located near Gangaur Ghat, provided incredible coffee and scrumptious, rich, full-fat cakes!
Accommodation in Udaipur
In all major Indian cities, there is a wide variety of accommodation options available to suit all budgets. One reliable choice is Zostel, a hostel chain known for its excellent facilities and friendly, knowledgeable staff. Other popular lodgings that consistently receive good reviews include hostels like Musafir, Dreamyard and Mantra, as well as homestays such as Shemash and Little Garden Guesthouse. For a more luxurious experience, the 5* Taj Lake Palace, which is situated on Lake Pichola itself, is also a stunning option.
We wanted to stay close to Lake Pichola and within walking distance of the City Palace, so we chose Udaigarth-Udaipur. We decided to splurge a little and booked the regal Royal Heritage Room, which turned out to be more affordable than many mid-range hotels we’ve stayed at in other cities. Our experience was fit for royalty! The hotel’s central and peaceful location, combined with a beautiful view of Lake Pichola and an infinity pool, made our stay even more enjoyable.
Travellingterry Udaipur Tips
- Commercialism can be wearing. Udiapur has an endless supply of would-be guides, souvenir sellers and commission-seeking tuk-tuk drivers. It helped when we stayed calm and gave a polite but firm ‘No, thank you’.
- Udaipur is a fantastic city to explore on foot, as most attractions are located close to one another. However, we discovered that we needed to keep one eye on the condition of the pavements and the other on the traffic, which often drove right next to the kerb, especially as many sidewalks were occupied by shop fronts, forcing us to step into the road at times.
- We found that the best time to visit the palace was early in the morning when it was cooler and before the hordes of tourist groups arrived.
- Investing in an audio guide at the City Palace was worthwhile and relatively inexpensive. Rajasthan Tourism provided helpful information about what to see in Udaipur, and the City Palace’s website was valuable for details on opening times and ticketing procedures. Finding accurate websites for other attractions was somewhat difficult, so we relied on recent blogs, inquiries at our accommodation, and advice from fellow tourists. Trains to and from Udaipur can be booked online with Indian Railways.
Onward Travel: Train from Udaipur to Agra (AC 1st Class sleeper)
As our overnight train started its route from Udaipur, it made the start of our journey a lot easier than if it were a through train with a frantic 5-10 minute stop to board. We arrived 40 minutes before departure (at 10:10 pm), and fortunately, the train was already at the platform. As Lorna had previously learned, if the train begins its route from the station where we embark, as a couple, we would usually be assigned a coupe (a 2-bed compartment) instead of a 4-bed compartment – and lo and behold, she was right!
For the next 12 hours, we enjoyed a peaceful night’s sleep with clean toilets, fresh bed sheets, breakfast snacks, and a couple of beers that we sneakily brought along. Perfect!
