My short six-day stay in Belize probably didn’t do the country justice, but my experiences in two different towns couldn’t have been more contrasting. I found Belize City to be somewhat intimidating, so much so that I felt constantly on guard—more than I did anywhere else in Central America. However, after a two-hour boat ride across the Caribbean Sea, I arrived on the idyllic and laid-back tropical island of Ambergris Caye, where I stayed in the friendly main town of San Pedro. But first, let me share about my first night in Belize.
A Night in Belize City
The long journey from Mexico meant that I had missed the last boat from Belize City to San Pedro, leaving me with no choice but to spend the night in the city. The area between the bus station and my accommodation, located across Swing Bridge, was rather sketchy. The walk, though only about a kilometre, felt quite unsettling.
The dilapidated, pothole-ridden bus station was quite an eye-opener. It felt like a cage, with passengers waiting for their bus services separated by fences from one route to another. Those of us who had just disembarked were directed through a separate fenced corridor.
Upon exiting the bus station in the late afternoon, I was greeted by many smiling faces, along with several “hellos” and “welcome.” However, there were also a few propositions for drugs and inquiries about whether I needed company. Most shops and bars had cut-out openings for people to exchange money and goods, and many men wandering the area appeared somewhat glazed, shirtless or shoeless, and not entirely in control of themselves. It did not feel like a relaxed place; instead, it felt tense, with everyone hurrying to reach their destinations.
A main street with almost all shops having metal grilles for added security and holes at the front to exchange money and goods
The following morning, the atmosphere around the streets was completely different, but I still felt the need to remain vigilant. Before my 11:00 water taxi to San Pedro, I decided to explore the Fort George area, which is the touristy part of Belize City. My first stop was the manually operated Swing Bridge, where it seemed like everyone in the city was crossing at that moment. I then took a stroll down Albert and Orange Streets, observing locals going about their daily business, and finally enjoyed some beautiful viewpoints on Fort Street that overlooked both the Caribbean Sea and the city itself.
Accommodation in Belize City
Belize City offers a variety of hotels, but many of them can be quite expensive. There are a few more affordable options located a couple of kilometres away from the city centre. Since my stay in Belize City was just for one night, I can’t comment on any accommodations other than the Belcove Hotel, which I found to be very good. It’s just a 5-minute walk from the dock and the tourist village, with friendly staff and a fantastic balcony that overlooks Handover Creek towards Belize Harbour. I didn’t go out for food because I had brought everything I needed from Mexico beforehand, though I did enjoy the refreshing beers available at the reception while watching the sunset.
Ambergris Caye (San Pedro)
San Pedro is the main town on Ambergris Caye, one of the two major island tourist hotspots in Belize, the other being Caye Caulker. Both islands can be reached by an exhiliarting 90-minute water taxi ride, which takes you past many other Caribbean islands. The water taxis also transport passengers to mainland Belize City and Chetumal in Mexico.
The laid-back and idyllic settings, along with the Caribbean vibes and proximity to the Belize Barrier Reef—the second-largest coral reef in the world—make both islands major tourist destinations, especially for North Americans on vacation.
Tourism constitutes the majority of the economic income, with activities primarily centred around the stunning turquoise waters, white sands, and vibrant marine life. Additionally, visitors can enjoy numerous Caribbean-style beach bars and a wide variety of Central American and Caribbean cuisine.
The island’s motto is ‘go slow,’ perfectly reflecting the relaxed atmosphere. It is uncommon to see cars; instead, there is a constant flow of electrically powered golf buggies driving along the narrow streets. However, these buggies are not entirely necessary as the island is both walkable and to go further the flat road makes it a perfect place to cycle.
My four nights on the island felt far too short; I could have easily stayed a few more weeks, or even months. Most of my time was spent lounging by the pool, wandering from one supermarket to another, snorkeling off a jetty, and engaging in more physical activities, all while keeping the island’s motto in mind!
Snorkelled off Jetties
One of the most enjoyable and independent activities on the island was finding a quiet jetty, donning snorkeling gear, and jumping into the warm turquoise waters of the Caribbean. I encountered various shellfish, a few rays, and numerous different species of fish – some of which appeared to be quite happy for me to swim alongside
Snorkelling equipment was readily available everywhere, and for just a couple of dollars to rent, it was very cheap and came with very few restrictions on where I could snorkel.
Swan with Sharks
Diving and snorkelling are one of the biggest draws to the islands and Hol Chan Marine Reserve is a ‘must’ for any visitor. I booked an awesome snorkelling tour with Blue Dream Adventures one of many companies selling all sorts of marine tours along the shores in San Pedro. Our laid-back guide who also operated the small boat, took our group to a couple of dive sights around the island including the marine reserve where on route we had to stop at a floating platform in the middle of the sea to collect our entrance wristbands.
Here, not only was I swimming among beautiful coral, but I also swam with stingrays, nursing ‘surf’ sharks, and tons of other marine fish. The guide made the tour exciting too as he was a chatty, fun guy who was happy to answer any questions posed and gave great tips on how to use electronic devices underwater for better pictures.
Cycled to Secret Beach
I cycled to Secret Beach, a location which in fact everyone knows about! It’s situated along the northwestern shoreline of the island, and the round trip took me about four hours. Although the terrain was flat, the ride was quite exhausting. I made regular stops at steamy lagoons and beautiful, yet daunting, mangroves where elusive crocodiles laid in wait, which added to my travel time.
But the reward for my efforts was one of the most incredible beaches I had ever seen with soft white sands, clear turquoise waters and very alcoholic tropical cocktails – which could be the main reason my return journey ride took so long! There was every marine activity available here and most of the restaurant served food on tables – set in the sea.
Drank at the Truck Stop
Apart from cycling, swimming and buggy driving, walking around the island was also a great relaxing activity. The first time I attempted to walk north, I got as far as 20 minutes, swam in the shallow waters, had a couple of beers, ambled back and then napped for a good hour or two. Oh, the life of an islander!
My second attempt was more successful, as I made it all the way to the Truck Stop, which is about 45 minutes from the outskirts of San Pedro. This fantastic place features a collection of food and drink vendors arranged in a garden-like setting. There are various courtyard activities to enjoy, such as darts and basketball. Additionally, there’s a great dock that overlooks a lake (apparently inhabited by crocodiles), offering beautiful views and live music. When I arrived, there was even a movie playing on a giant screen.
Walked with the Carnival
Fortunately, I was in San Pedro during its annual Carnival, and it was an incredible experience filled with fun. There were street dancers, parades, and a variety of amazing food stalls. A highlight was the talent show in Central Park on the seafront, hosted by Miss San Pedro. Young performers competed for the coveted trophy by singing, dancing, and showcasing acrobatic skills, creating an atmosphere full of excitement and cheers.
Additionally, Caribbean bands played lively music throughout San Pedro, but everything came to a halt when the traditional throwing of paint and eggs began—a custom that has been upheld for over 200 years! Fortunately, by the time this had started, I was too busy snacking around the street food stalls and tucking into a bowl of rice, beans and skewered chicken with some fabulous Belizean fudge to finish the meal off. Delicious!
If I had more time I would have visited…
- Caye Caulker (snorkelled and splashed-the-cash on a sight-seeing flight over the Blue Hole Natural Monument – a submarine sinkhole).
- On Ambergris Caye – more sunbathing…more snorkelling…more eating!
- In Belize itself, I would have liked to have gone to Orange Town and the Mayan site of Lamanal as well as the Capital town of Belmopan.
Accommodation in San Pedro
There is plenty of accommodation available on Ambergris Caye, although prices tend to rise significantly outside of San Pedro due to high-end boutiques and resorts. During my stay in San Pedro, I chose the Sandbar Beachfront Hostel and Restaurant. It was a cozy place with a fantastic kitchen, a clean swimming pool, friendly staff, and a great group of easy-going travelers, some of whom had been there for months. The hostel featured some of the best bunk beds I’ve ever slept in, complete with wide beds, curtains for privacy, and additional plug points and shelves around the very comfortable mattresses.
Eating in San Pedro
San Pedro is quite expensive when it comes to dining in restaurants, as most cater for small groups and ‘couples’, which meant as a solo traveller it was not really my ‘cup of tea’. However, the kitchen facilities at the hostel were excellent, and a great place to wine and dine with fellow travellers.
In the central park, there were some street food stalls, as well as Mexican and Salvadoran restaurants near the airport that served delicious tacos and pupusas. The fillings and dips were fantastic, especially an amazing thick coleslaw with a sharp, tangy kick. I just wish I hadn’t gone overboard with the chilli bell—what was supposed to be mild certainly packed a punch!
Most of the food I purchased came from supermarkets, which seemed to be primarily owned by people of Lebanese origin. Due to the fact that most food had to be imported into Belize and then again to the islands, items like pasta and rice were nearly double the price compared to other Central American countries.
Onward Travel: San Pedro to Flores (Guatemala)
When I was in Mexico the previous week, I booked a direct bus from Belize City to Flores in Guatemala with Gekko Trails Explorer. This option was more expensive than taking local buses and transferring at various points, but it offered convenience since it picked me up at the same dock where my water taxi from San Pedro arrived. Additionally, it dropped me off at the famous Yo Amo Petén street sign in Flores, which is just a 4-minute walk from my accommodation.
I found the 6-hour journey quite interesting as it passed through several Belizean villages, showcasing traditional wooden-style homes and many people working on farms or in construction with hand tools, in contrast to the machinery commonly seen in Europe. Fortunately passing through customs at both borders was relatively efficient. However, the queue on the Belize side moved much slower, even though there were more passport booths than when I arrived at the speedy Guatemalan border.
